I have a job coming up to photograph exteriors and interiors of a new building complex. My forte' isn't architectural work, but I can do the job. I'll be using a P45, which is usually attached to a Sinar in-Studio, but I also use an RZ Pro II with the Phase on location as well. Any advice from Architectural/Interiors shooters would be great. I don't have a shift-tilt for the Mamiya, but I can rent or buy- but should I? Is using the Sinar better?
What about a DSLR with a shift-tilt? Also advice on dusk-dark...
anything you can offer, very much appreciated.

Well Peter

on archi it depends much on the lenses, you've with the Sinar/RZ...

The Mamiya-shift is very limited in angle, so one option might be stitching...

It's all about light and composition.

Plus, keep as level as possible (including strong lower elements help compose that way), and making use of PS to straighten perspective is no sin. Shooting digital is cheap, experiment doing different versions with no restraint.

You might check out the Nikon D3 full frame dslr with the new Nikon 24mm tilt/shift lens.Nikon also has an excellent 14-24 zoom. Or the Canon 1Ds3 or 5D with the Canon's version of the 24 tilt/shift.

If you have the glass to cover what you need on the Sinar, that is the most versatile, and assumedly you are very familiar with working it. You gain little by going to RZ other than comfort and even with shift lens will not be as flexible. Going to a new camera means learning a new system and carries a potentially significant cost even if rented. It may or may not be able to do all the you want/need. What we don't know are the particulars of the job - building space/type, added lighting needs, budget, output requirements.... I like to scout with a DLSR to get a handle on lens needs, existing ligth quality, times of day, and people/traffic flow and often meet with client with this [large contact sheet] in hand to work out the details before they were problems.

Make sure you have an equivalent lens to 24mm in 35mm. Anything wider is too distorted. Shoot straight and correct verticals if needed in PS.

watch out for screen clash on blinds/fabric

Find out which way the exterior faces to get the best sun at the best time.

quote:

Originally posted by Adrian Wilson:
[qb] Make sure you have an equivalent lens to 24mm in 35mm. Anything wider is too distorted. [/qb]

Adrian, give a try to the Sigma 12~24mm on your new Canon, even if only for the fun of it, you will be surprised. Sharpness is not stellar, so consider working at f/16 most of the time, and strong sharpening in post-processing will help too.

That lens is like getting a new set of eyes to look around!

Pretty much 95% I ever shoot is on the cambo with 35mm or the RZ with a 50mm and I don't ever want to go wider.
It is just not right.

Adrian

Actually the Canon 14mm II lens is great - very low distortion since its rectilinear.

quote:

Originally posted by Adrian Wilson:
[qb] It is just not right. [/qb]

24mm+ = boring





All this lens/camera chat is basic and obvious. Whatever works for the situation.

Concentrate on lighting. Is it tungsten only, or mixed with fluorescent? Are there enough house lights in the rooms to light it up, or will you have to add lighting to make it look appealing? Do the interiors have windows showing daylight? Or are some just lit by house lights? Do you have restrictions on time of day? How many shots per day do you have to perform?

Seriously. Distortion is really a horrible thing. I don't want my circles becoming elipses and the scale between foreground and background completely accentuated. I see shots wider than 24 and I just cringe.

None of my clients ever ask or want wider angle. that Hasselblad 28mm was just horrible.

My job is to capture a space properly but make it look the best it can. It should be natural and familiar.

Boring I suppose is the opposite of running out of ideas and shooting tilted shots or with a fisheye lens.

There's a saying I heard over 20 years ago, If you like it, its perspective. If you don't, it's distortion.

The advantages of 24mm for me is shifting and that it's easier to hide my lights with less FOV. I can literally box myself out when I'm wider. The disadvantage is it tends to crop into certain scene elements, rather than completing their lines.

My normal lens is a 35xl on cambo wide DS with 20% using the 24xl. I think it depends on the type of work you shoot. If the client wants the whole room, and the room is small you need a wider lens.

JG,

I see you got the intro page up!